Lombardy has everything that’s good about Switzerland, but at about a third the cost. Best of all, Lombardy is in Italy. I was drawn there for the world class cycling around the alpine village of Bormio. The famous mountain passes surrounding the village - Stelvio, Mortorolo, Umbrail, Lago Concano, Gavia, and others - are frequently included in the more grueling stages of Italy’s legendary bicycle race, the Giro d’Italia. Bormio, located near the Swiss border, is nestled in the Italian Alps and has been a magnet for wintertime skiers and summertime bicyclists for many years. The historic, but chic, old town neighborhood has an abundance of bars, restaurants, and spas and caters primarily to cyclists and skiers. But when you become bored with cycling up and down the Alps, gulping down thin mountain air, and wondering what possessed you to do this, you can drive two hours west to Lake Como, and find a lakeside village where you can recuperate.
Lake Como is one of Italy's largest glacial lakes and has been a vacation destination for centuries. No doubt, the lake and its surrounding villages have a rich, ancient history, like everywhere else in this part of the world, but this region's history does not demand your undivided attention the way Rome or Florence do. The renaissance and baroque architecture that define the lake villages simply remind you that the place has been here for awhile. Lake Como is mainly just an easy-going, picturesque vacation destination - kind of like Cape Cod or the Hamptons in Massachusetts.
We arrived at the small lake village of Lezzeno in the late afternoon, and found our well-appointed rental apartment. We immediately set out to find a grocery store so we could stock our kitchen for the week. Our mission was complicated by the fact that, apparently, local zoning regulations prevent commercial establishments - like grocery stores - from having signs advertising their presence. The regulations are clearly successful at preserving the look of the place, but they also make it hard to find the grocery store. Our search turned into a pleasant, meandering walk. We eventually found the store and stocked up on provisions. But it’s not like you’ll starve to death if you don’t find the grocery store because there was no shortage of really good osterias and ristorantes within a short walk from our apartment. All of them include freshwater lake fish on their menus, caught that day. So, the catch is truly fresh.
A fisherman on Lake Como trying for one more hit before nightfall.
Aperol Spritzes and chips, Hotel Aurora, Lezzeno, Lake Como.
Small boats tied up at Pascale, Italy, on Lake Como.
Strada dello Stelvio, leading up to the Passo dello Stelvio,
the highrest mountain pass on the Giro d'Italia,
and the highest in all the Grand Tour races.
The switchbacks on the Lake Cancano climb.
The lake is at the top of the mountain.
A winery on the road from Bormio to Lake Como. The
young man at the head of the table is the head vintner. He was very
knowledgeable about wine, got a little choked up when he spoke of it, and
referred to the various dimensions of wine as "quite beautiful."
He studied wine making at San Michaela in Tantino.
The Monument to the Fallen Cyclist at Magreglio on Lake Como.
A vinyard on Lake Como.
A typical village on the Lake.
Cyclists (they're all over the place) ascending out of Bellagio.
A tourist (Pat Bowman) walking around Pascale. Notice
the grapes and the lush vegetation growing in the alley way.
Leaving Lezzeno for the hike to Magreglio.
Lezzeno, as seen from the trail to Magreglio.
The trail to Magreglio.
A villa on the lake.
Thank you!